It’s hard to believe, even as a certified auto appraiser that the brake rotors on my 1993 class A Winnebago reached over 450 degrees Fahrenheit on my families recent trip out to Yellowstone…but they did! Note the photo below of the digital temp gauge reading on the front rotor. It makes one wonder, at WHAT point does wheel bearing grease boil out of the bearings?
As an automotive writer, sometimes I just get stuck for ideas…blank screen. In my 20 year career as a classic car appraiser, I’ve constantly seen a lot of spectacular cars, many I would write about, if I could just get passed the idea that I’m droning on about it in a boring way. I’m not that interested in writing about a car’s production history, although sometimes you’ll catch me doing this. History on cars can be read practically anywhere one looks. History can also be boring. I mean, how many of us actually paid attention in high school history class anyway? Old production history doesn’t tell you much about the classic car parked in front of you either. As an auto appraiser, it’s my goal to bring to the table some of the interesting things that I discover during an intense auto inspection. Yes, I DID say intense! For example, I often see the same style repairs on “first gen” Camaro quarter panels. Most body shop technicians I speak to like to do “lay overs”, instead of full quarter panel replacements. There are pros and cons to this method, (mostly cons in my opinion) many I will discuss in an upcoming article. These are things I feel have not been discussed or brought to light that are far more interesting than how many Camaro’s were actually produced. When you’re attempting to purchase a car long distance, these are things that are hard to discover about the car and weigh out before you commit to the process. It is my goal as a writer to bring up issues such as these and shed a little light on the subject. If you have any thoughts or ideas that you wish to share or items you wish to see written about, feel free to forward them to us at http://www.autoappraise.com. Entitle them, questions for auto appraiser Jason Phillips, or sign up to our blog as a contributor.
In the previous article, auto appraiser Jason Phillips noted that once you confirm power at the jamb button switches and their functionality is correct, it’s time to move to the rear. In the subject car, a 1979 Pontiac trans Am, we opened the trunk, and look to the driver’s side wheelhouse. Just beyond it and above, is the wiring harness to the taillights. It’s in this same location on many GM 70’s cars. The dome light plugs in here. It’s a two white wire connector, black end. Unplug and test. Ground one side of your tester. You should have 12 volts on one side, doors closed. when a door is opened, you should have power on both leads. If it tests out, then check the continuity to the dome light itself. With the bulb in, it should have continuity. Obviously, you have made sure that your bulbs are all good first! Always Always address the cheap and easy first, right? That’s it. That’s the whole circuit. In our particular case, we purchased an aftermarket plastichrome plated housing and harness from NPD Parts Warehouse, and it was poorly made. The chrome coating was grounding out against the steel posts in the roof of the car that the housing slides up onto. Our headliner began to smoke when we put in our light bulb! Thank GOD for quick ground disconnect switches!
In your older GM car, are your courtesy lights stuck on? auto appraiser Jason Phillips notes that most GM button switches located in the door jambs, used to break ground to the circuit operate the same way. The switches are threaded into the cowl jamb post, and are spring loaded. Often, the left switch is a two wire, one side to the courtesy lights, and one to the ignition buzzer. Both are supposed to be hot leads, so do not be confused, thinking that pushing in the switch will cut power to the other side of that switch. Most switches on the passenger side are only a one wire connection. You can un-screw the switch and pull the wire spade connector right through the hole on either side. You don’t normally need to remove the kick panel to remove the switch. Pull them out, un-plug them and test switch for continuity. Use an electric wire wheel to clean them up while their out, freeing them of decay and possibly old repaint build up. Where the wire spade connectors are now hanging out of the holes: if you have 12 volts at all three spades, and both switches check out for continuity by breaking the circuit when they are pushed in, then you should rule out those items as the source of stuck on or off dome light problem. The follow up diagnosis is posted later in this blog.
Cars built on the A platform include:
* 1960-1976 Plymouth Valiant
* 1963-1976 Dodge Dart
* 1967 Dart GT
* 1968-1969 Dart GTS (my favorite)
* 1964-1969 Plymouth Barracuda
* 1971-1976 Plymouth Scamp
* 1970-1976 Plymouth Duster
* 1961-1962 Dodge Lancer
* 1971-1972 Dodge Demon
* 1971-1981 Valiant Charger (Australia Only)
Cars built on the rear wheel drive B platform include:
* 1962 Dodge Dart
* 1962-1964 Dodge Polara
* 1962-1964 Plymouth Fury
* 1962-1964 Plymouth Savoy
* 1962-1970 Plymouth Belvedere
* 1963-1964 Dodge 220 (Canadian)
* 1963-1964 Dodge 330
* 1963-1964 Dodge 440
* 1965-1974 Plymouth Satellite
* 1965-1976 Dodge Coronet
* 1966-1978 Dodge Charger
* 1967-1971 Plymouth GTX
* 1968-1975 Plymouth Road Runner
* 1975-1978 Plymouth Fury
* 1975-1979 Chrysler Cordoba
* 1977-1978 Dodge Monaco
* 1978-1979 Dodge Magnum
* 1979 Chrysler 300
Chrysler built on the E-body platform for two separate car ranges.
* 1970-1974 Dodge Challenger
* 1970-1974 Plymouth Barracuda
Cars built on the C platform include:
* 1965-1974 Plymouth Fury
* 1965 Dodge Custom 880
* 1965 Chrysler 300L
* 1965-1971 Chrysler 300
* 1965-1973 Dodge Polara
* 1965-1976 Dodge Monaco
* 1965-1977 Chrysler Town and Country station wagon
* 1965-1978 Chrysler Newport
* 1965-1966 Chrysler Windsor (Canada only)
* 1966-1969 Plymouth VIP
* 1974-1975 Imperial
* 1975-1977 Plymouth Gran Fury
* Chrysler New Yorker
During an auto appraisal, Jason Phillips took the pictures of a wonderful 1961 Oldsmobile Super 88 Convertible that you’re seeing below. It’s difficult to argue that there was a more beautifully designed bumper on a 60’s era car. It’s design intentionally flowed into the bold feature lines and drastic angles of the car. “You can see this car coming from a mile away”. No other GM car reigns so distinctive. This is one solid survivor convertible. It had been tastefully upgraded with a 1962 Starfire bucket seat OEM color matched interior. It features a stock factory tachometer built into the Starfire console. I have yet to look at the Oldsmobile production numbers, but I know they’re fairly low.
auto appraiser Jason Phillips was pleasantly surprised when he was hired by the insured to represent his total loss case on a burned 1969 Camaro, opposite State Farm. “Our numbers didn’t come in that far off the number that State Farm came up with on their own”. State Farm normally requires a third party “umpire” be chosen in advance of the two enlisted appraisers coming up with their respective values. In this case, they were willing to wait, to see what Auto Appraises’ car appraisal value was. They were originally offering about $15,000 to settle the case. We came in at just over $18,500. Our figure was well supported, with multiple comparable cars listed for sale.
Helpful rules to follow from expert auto appraiser Jason Phillips:
#1. Educate yourself on pressure selling tactics, so you are less likely to become a victim of them. Google (car sales pressure tactics by Jason Phillips)
#2. Don’t act like an expert. You practice buying a car once every few years….they practice selling a car 5 times a day! Your skill set is way outweighed!
#3. Don’t rely on your “expert” just because he’s a guy. Lots of guys pretend to know about cars that really don’t.
#4. Utilize seller provided photos to introduce yourself to a car, but never rely on these photos to be telling the whole story. It’s like marrying the woman based on the photo she posted on match.com!
#5. Look at book values, but use only as a guideline. Even weekly publications like NADA can be off by thousands of dollars, and often NOT in your favor.
#6. Due diligence! Get to know asking prices on the car(s) you are following. Use mileage and option packages to adjust accordingly.
#7. Be open to more than one car, one color, etc…..the wider your sights, the less pressure on you, the better the deals you’ll usually get.
#8. Use a title branding service like carfax, to look at reported vehicle history. Don’t be naive enough to rely solely on this, as LOTS of stuff goes unreported. Buyback guarantees offered by services similar to this are usually impossible to collect on.
#9. Once you’ve narrowed your search, and negotiated your best deal, have a full blown professional inspection done. It will be the best piece of mind your money can buy. It’s a lot cheaper than a plane ticket, rental car and a missed day of work! Go to www.autoappraise.com to arrange for your inspection, or call them at 800-301-3886. The best in the business at protecting YOUR interests!
auto appraiser Jason Phillips points out that his last auto appraisal on a 2007 Cadillac revealed that previously repaired accident and structural collision damage were evident during the car inspection. Neither carfax or autocheck reported on the damage. The car’s history was clean. The driver’s side tire was “cambered” in at the top, due to a insufficient repair on the Left frame rail. No amount of suspension work is going to stop that tire from wearing out prematurely, as the root problem is much deeper. The client did their due diligence by ordering a report at the time of sale. “….it wouldn’t have mattered which service we chose, because when we found out, we ran a second report, with both companies, and it still never showed up… ” As you would imagine, neither company took responsibility for the missed information. Conclusion: the carfax guarantee is worthless in my opinion. If you or anybody you know has ever been financially compensated by either company for missed information, then please report it to us, as we would like to report it to you. If you have a similar story to share, please sign up to this blog and report it. e-mail to cars@autoappraise.com
Auto Appraise Inc. has 266 auto appraisers nationally and can help you with a certified auto total loss appraisal in California. Don’t be enamored by claims of huge, unrealistic settlement numbers promised by auto loss appraisers within the industry. Further, don’t believe in “self boasting”, instead, believe in customer testimonials that you can actually contact. Be smart, and get a second opinion, no matter who you are doing business with. We can provide you with solid advice and a reasonable position that will be respected by other legitimate auto appraisal firms within the industry….not laughed at. Be sure to take time to read about complaints filed against various appraisal groups. Do this by typing in auto appraisal complaints and auto total loss problems into Google. Also, the Better Business Bureau BBB does a great job as well. You will fast learn that some insurance companies won’t even accept the internet appraisal you’ve just purchased, due to unscrupulous tactics. In short, DO YOUR HOMEWORK! If you need assistance, call 800-301-3886. http://www.autoappraise.com
