Classic cars or muscle cars are collectible items for many people and they carry a lot of worth. Usually these cars stay in the family and get passed down to the next generation but many people make the decision to sell their vehicle when they need funds or no longer have the room to store such a big collector’s item. Getting an honest and true auto appraisal for your classic car can be a step in the right direction to selling your classic car for a good coin.

When you obtain an auto appraisal for a classic car you are asking a third party to give the rundown of the vehicle. This includes all the good as well as the bad. It’s usually pretty hard for an owner to list all the intricate details of a classic vehicle because not only have they enjoyed their vehicle for many years but they also might not know what could be wrong under the hood or on the frame. A professional auto appraisal will include the shape the motor is in, the quality of the body work and what parts may need to be replaced. There are a lot of factors that go into how much a car is worth.

Seeking a professional auto appraisal will ensure that when you go to sell your vehicle you will receive every penny that it’s worth. A thorough description of a classic car will give potential buyers a clear picture of what they are purchasing and they’ll be more apt to pay a higher price.

Technorati Tags: auto appraisal, auto appraisals, auto appraise, auto appraiser, classic cars

Having a full blown classic car inspection done, coupled with a certified car appraisal is where you should start if you’re serious about selling your muscle car or antique car in today’s on line market. Buyers typically expect that the one’s selling their own car will reveal the car in a very favorable fashion….to be expected. This process gets worse when you add in a broker that hasn’t really seen and studied the car. Most of those deals fall apart mid flight, due to lack of confidence on the buyers part. If they do end up selling, it’s for a lower dollar than they should have sold for, because smart buyers don’t overpay for a car they are not confident in. The key to success? Earn the buyer’s confidence. Not just through salesmanship, but through honest, accurate depiction. Having the car inspected by an outside, professional 3rd party inspection company will reveal the car’s strengths and weaknesses, and help both parties get down to the truth, which leads to a truthful and favorable outcome for both parties.  Our process includes jacking up the car and test driving it when possible, along with magnet test results, and in some cases video presentations, when personally conducted by the owner. Even if you have some computer skills, the management of a successful selling campaign on line can be a arduous process. Having the time to send out 100’s of photos, over and over to different prospective buyers, teaching them how to link to and or view videos, answer dozens of questions, and continually follow up  with people is what is required. You can utilize the reports and photos that Autoappraise.com will create for you on site to sell your car, or better yet, you can let us step up and handle the whole task for you. We have sold EVERY car that has been consigned to us, through our unique process of thorough accurate depiction. Don’t just take our word for it. Auto Appraise will put you in touch with the actual sellers of the cars we’ve consigned, so you can hear the stories of our success from them….which is really their success. Put the hard work and skills of certified auto appraiser  Jason Phillips to work for you. Please call us to discuss your unique situation. We offer discounted service for car collections. Auto Appraise Inc. is well reviewed in the Classic car field, so check out what our client’s are saying! Call us to discuss your needs. 800-301-3886, or 810-694-2008. M-F, 9am-7pm, Sat 10-2pm, EST.

Technorati Tags: auto appraisal, auto appraiser, buying a used car for sale, Classic car chat, classic car for sale, consignment, muscle car for sale

1976 Cadillac Eldorado convertible for sale, original documented 6,300 mile survivor. Firethorn red exterior with white leather. 4 hour long comprehensive inspection conducted for the estate on each car (3 Cadillacs in all) with full written detailed report, 300+ photos, video walk around and video test drive. Email our office for links to all of these. cars@autoappraise.com. Report highlights listed below:
PAINT: Original factory applied Firethorn metallic red finish. Digital paint meter measures 2.0-4.5 mils consistent throughout fifty spots tested on vehicle. No amount of aftermarket body filler or paint located. Reflective quality is excellent for original factory applied paint. Large bold print can be read in reflection from 10-12 inches away (common for paint of this era). Small nicks, chips, blemishes or scratches documented; please see photos for area and locations. Paint is otherwise in excellent showable quality condition. Paint inside door jambs and sills is factory original throughout entire vehicle. Underbody paint still presents nicely from factory. Urethane bumper extensions are noted to have typical color fade.
BODY: showable quality, beautiful, original 6,000 mile survivor body. All factory spot welds visible. No repairs ever. Doors close with two finger effort. One small door ping. Paint isn’t broken here, so it could be removed. Stain free white top operates perfectly. Hard parade boot has likely never been used.
FRAME/FLOORS: Excellent original collision-free frame, with no rot or decay visible. Original fuel lines and brake lines installed, with original clips all along frame rails. Original bumper mounts to frame indicate no visible collision or towing damage whatsoever. Floor pans are visibly clean and stout, with original factory paint color still present where original undercoating was once installed. No level of fresh detail or clean-up work has been done underneath vehicle. Some cosmetic oxidation and surface rust buildup on some original non-factory painted parts; see photos. Clean quarter panel splashes and trunk extensions. No active leaking seen on bottom of vehicle, other than some dampness on transmission pan, but no active dripping noted on floors. See photo of floor under vehicle.
BUMPERS AND TRIM: All is very nice, no re-plating required. No missing components.
GLASS, RUBBERS, LENSES: All date coded original Saf-t-plate GM glass. Good motor speed and tight regulators function nice. All original rubbers are free of tears and still supple. No vertical roller scratches.
INTERIOR: No stains, cracks or color fade. Excellent 6000 mile well preserved everything. All options and lights work as designed, except power antenna.
ENGINE/BAY: Original 500 cubic inch starts easily, idles properly. High idle kicks down works as designed. No knocking, ticking, or smoking noted upon startup after long-term cold storage. Oil is clean and full. Engine runs very tight. Engine bay is all original with factory crayon markings on backside of hood, original stampings on alternator, exhaust manifolds, cruise control unit, wiper motor, and original paper tags on brake lines, just to name a few. Once detailed, engine will be of showable quality.
TEST DRIVE-Easy start, good acceleration with no hesitation, Suspension handles well, floats nicely. Tranny shifts well up and down, fluid is clean. Brakes apply smoothly, no pull or pulse. A/C operates, but needs recharge/service. Asking price is $35,000.00. Currently, there is one lower miles comparable car for sale in market for $60,000. This is the lowest miles car available in the market in the mid $30’s price range. An excellent investment grade car described in an honest as is fashion. Request link to report and 300 pics by emailing cars@autoappraise.com. Or, call 800-301-3886. After hours, 810-691-2664.

Update: Thanks for looking, we have sold this client’s car.

Technorati Tags: cadillac, convertible, eldorado, for sale

This 1963 340 HP Chevrolet Corvette has been meticulously frame off restored over a 3 year period by an experienced Corvette enthusiast. It’s a correct, original red on red roadster with it’s original number’s matching engine, transmission and rear end. Look closely at photos and you will see the real difference when someone spends over $125,000 doing up a rock solid original car. This car is right, down to the correct color fuel line clips. Bonding strips and fiberglass from under are clean and clearly visible.  The restoration has less than 3500 miles of road time logged. It’s truly a beautiful car….as close to a show car as you would want to drive occasionally. From date coded hoses to paint daubs, this is an amazing car. In today’s dollars, it would be difficult to even do this car again due to the lack of  NOS chrome available. Aftermarket parts are just not the same.  Another 200 photos can be studied along with a comprehensive inspection report at http://www.autoappraise.com. You’ll need to email cars@autoappraise.com and ask for a password to additional info. Here’s a shorter version of what’s in the report. Please access and read the report before you call, as I am on the road often and am not always easy to reach. 810-691-2664. We are asking $67,500.00

Casting numbers, casting dates and stampings were located and photographed. BODY TAG: k3 build date, 490m trim, 923A paint. ENGINE: 3787820 casting, F253 julian cast date, F0630RE assembly stamp, with corresponding VIN stamp 3120xxx. Brioche marks are visible on pad surface. Other engine component numbers were documented and can be accessed in report. TRANSMISSION: 3831704 main case, 3788421 scatter shield, vertical flange stamp corresponds to VIN 3120xxx. REAR END: Stamped “CE” code, dated 7 15 63. To summarize, the vin tag is correctly spot welded and the trim tag correctly riveted, and all the numbers above correspond and are correct for this car. Links to youtube.com are posted below, including cold start and test drive. If they don’t connect directly, just copy and paste them into youtube.com.

UPDATE: Thanks for looking, we have sold this client’s car.

Technorati Tags: classic car, corvette, for sale

In this article, Auto Appraiser Jason Phillips breaks down the 1-6 “condition numbers” that often get assigned to determine a vehicle’s worth, and the general weakness of this approach in a real attempt to place a proper value.
The first question one should ask would be…”is the car untouched and all original”? From my past experience, it’s very rare when a buyer runs across this situation. This is the easiest situation to assign a single number to a car with equally aged components. Seller’s often unknowingly represent their cars this way, when in fact they have been partially or fully repainted, or modified in some amount they consider not worthy of mentioning. Sometimes, they’re not even aware of previous changes, due to purchasing the car in that condition. Other times alterations are “bolt-ons”, absent the original parts accompanying in the trunk. Sometimes a beautiful exterior re-paint has left the door/trunk jambs in single stage, unattended condition. Sometimes those new base/clear repaints get reacquainted with their old; patina soaked or pitted original bright work. One thing is for certain; other than an untouched, unaltered “barn find”, it’s very difficult to describe most cars with only ONE NUMBER!
After 21 years in the hobby/ workforce, I consider myself a veteran auto appraiser. Appraising and training others to appraise is my full time career. I say this not to establish bragging rights, (though my mother is very proud) but to help establish a foundation of where my opinion comes from. I’ve had the honor of creating an education from inspecting over 6,000 vehicles. Of those, I can count on two hands (O.K., maybe three) the number of actual untouched original vehicles viewed. While a multitude of these appraised cars were close to “bone stock originals” improved upon minimally, the vast majority had at least one exterior repaint, re-covered seats, replacement carpets coupled with some interior paint freshening and re-plated bumpers. The rest fell somewhere between frame up and frame off restored, excluding the “street rods” and “resto-mods”. On cars such as these, it is virtually IMPOSSIBLE to assign just one narrow, categorized number for valuing! To further complicate matters, consider the following; of those touting “frame off” restored, the quality of workmanship varied between that “at home” amateur father and son first project look, all the way up to “House of Kolors” over-restored dialed in to the max beauty look!
If my past experience as an auto appraiser has taught me anything, it really all comes down to this: most cars have a “split personality” regarding value. That is to say varying levels of new and aged improvements made on various components, and the quality level at which said improvements were tastefully executed plays a huge role in determining value. Ill-fitting poorly made Chinese reproduction parts are no substitute for true OEM components and or nicely restored original pieces. Stop signs and home heating duct do a sufficient job of patching holes in a trunk pan, but are not equal to a replacement trunk pan that’s been properly installed. New seat covers and carpet DO NOT equal a restored interior. Neither does spray canned black control arms and coil springs with new yellow shocks installed inside them equate to a rebuilt suspension. And NO, roofing tar does not make a sufficient frame repair, regardless of how smooth you may get it to look over the rust holes!
In summary, breaking down the car by each major section and assigning a number or grade is the way I come to a logical conclusion on placing value. Having a solid basis of knowledge on restoration costs, OEM parts expertise vs. aftermarket parts and their associated value, as well as a good eye for quality workmanship are the key factors you should apply when assessing values on your own. Just for grins, Try numbering your own classic car by section and see what you discover. If you end up with mostly #1’s and #2’s, well then……ask your best car buddy to do it for you again, JUST to be sure you’re not missing the mark or showing any subjective favoritism!

Technorati Tags: auto appraisals, auto appraiser, Classic car chat

auto appraiser Jason Phillips was pleasantly surprised when he was hired by the insured to represent his total loss case on a burned 1969 Camaro, opposite State Farm. “Our numbers didn’t come in that far off the number that State Farm came up with on their own”. State Farm normally requires a third party “umpire” be chosen in advance of the two enlisted appraisers coming up with their respective values. In this case, they were willing to wait, to see what Auto Appraises’ car appraisal value was. They were originally offering about $15,000 to settle the case. We came in at just over $18,500. Our figure was well supported, with multiple comparable cars listed for sale.

Any legitimate insurance company appreciates thorough research, something they don’t always have the time or resources to effectively process in house. They opted in this case to settle with their insured, at our figure, and save him the expense of having to hire (and pay 1/2 the fee) of a third party umpire to come in and rule on the case. I felt this was an extraordinary example of where an insurance company is attempting to do the right thing. People often become tainted in this process, because of stories told about unfair settlements and the like. Well in the 20 years since I’ve been in the auto appraisal business, this was a rare but pleasant first! I was very glad to see it happen. The insured is ecstatic as well. I felt it was appropriate to share this story, considering my involvement. Hats off to State Farm, setting a new precedent in customer satisfaction.

Technorati Tags: auto accident, auto appraisal, diminished value, total loss

Jason Phillips points out in an auto appraisal that it’s easiest to identify true factory built SS Chevelle’s in 1966 and 1967. Even without a protect-o-plate, or a build sheet, the cowl tag and VIN tag will not lead you astray. If it begins with 138, then it was a factory built SS model. All SS chevelle’s from 1966 through 1970 were 396 equipped cars. All except for some 402’s, and of course LS5 and LS6 equipped 454 1970 models. If you need more info or a car inspected, check out our website, www.autoappraise.com.

Technorati Tags: chevelle, chevrolet, SS, technical

I knew when I was walking up the driveway on this last auto appraisal that there was going to be drivability issues. The left rear tire had some major negative camber issues. This is spotted easiest by kneeling down behind the car from 20 feet away, and looking at the tilt of the rear tires. It can be adjusted some, by rotating the cam washer, or replacing the non-adjustable lower torsion arms with aftermarket adjustable ones. The car had all original bonding strips in place, and a very good original un-hit frame. The dog leg caps had some rust, but nothing structural to be concerned about. On the high side, it had a tank sticker, both tops, and was a numbers matching big block 427 car, with the original muncie and original rear end. The rest of the suspension had been rebuilt, which was nice. It ran surprisingly well, and had really nice paint, for a 20 year old respray. It’s still for sale, the guy want’s $25,000. Contact us if you are interested in this car. 800-301-3886

Technorati Tags: 427, big block, corvette, for sale, numbers matching

Certified auto appraiser Jason Phillips has recently inspected both a 66 and 67 GTO. The post December 1966 build date for 67 models makes it a whole lot easier on verification of engines. Pontiac Motor Division began Stamping VIN’s on the motor in Mid December, 1966. If you have the still original block in a 1967, then it SHOULD be stamped next to the timing chain cover, just beyond the lower radiator hose inlet. The stamp is vertical, and often up higher on the pad. This 67 was clearly marked. The seller had the PHS documentation, even better. If you’re a buyer, and he/she does not have PHS, be sure to order it. Jim at Pontiac Historical Services can fax you back the essentials on a car history in about a day’s time. It’s well worth the money he charges to have this in hand. There you’ll find the engine unit number on the car’s billing history to match up against the right front engine stamp. This was especially useful on the 66 I did, as there was no vin stamp on the 66’s. The PHS will also provide other build history on the car. I have 265 inspectors at work nationwide, and I never send one out to do a Pontiac inspection before I order my PHS on line. The 66 turned out to be very nice, but not a matching car. It’s still for sale if you’re looking for one.

Technorati Tags: 1966, 1967, GTO, numbers matching, Pontisac

So many people ask me when I’m conducting an auto appraisal if I can confirm the “matching numbers” on the motor and transmission. When selling, seller’s often refer to their cars as numbers matching, but only because most of them cannot be confirmed on sight. FE blocks (12 versions in all) for the most part were not vin stamped, unlike GM cars and Mopar’s. Casting dates is about all you’re going to end up with off the engines. During an on site inspection, these are not possible to see on a small block, unless you brought your tool box! Some dis assembly IS required.

Technorati Tags: ford, mustang, numbers matching